To try to put a week of sailing along the coast of Croatia into one single blog post is an impossible task. I cannot even begin to tell you how truely spectacular it was. Mere words cannot reflect the unending awesomeness that is to be found in these places nestled along the Adriatic. If I could I would spend the rest of time traveling in this place.
I should go back and apologize for the lack of posting over the last weeks. Time has been slipping away at a faster rate than I anticipated and every time I think to come online and continue with my stories it seems the day and time just get away from me. Free time was precious these last days as was power supply which was also a huge hindrance. But back to the story, no more excuses.
Our trip began in Split after morning of catching up with friends from Eastern Trekker that had just finished their weeks on the boats. Their golden tans and relaxed appearance was a teaser as to what the week would hold. They told great tales of life at sea, causing much envy and anticipation. After saying our final goodbyes we headed in the direction of what would be our homes for the next week.
The only scary part of the entire trip was the treacherous passage between the boats as they would all dock tied together parked in one long row. Sometimes we were at the front but for the most part, because of the size of our boat, we were near the end which meant walking across 4 to 6 boats to get to dry land. This may not sound like a major feat but keep in mind that the places to cross rarely met up properly, meaning they would be staggered by a few feet and there was always at least 2 feet of space to hop over though more often it was closer to 3 feet with nothing to stop you from falling into the water below. Only a couple of people fell in, I slipped once because of a water bomb ambush of which I was the main target, but that story is for later.
Sitting on the deck at the back of the boat we started to introduce ourselves around. A majority of the people were from Australia but we also had 3 Kiwis, 2 South Africans and of course myself, the token Canadian. I was actually one of two Canadians on all 6 of the busabout boats. Talk about being outnumbered.
Our guide Troy, also Australian, gave a little speech and told us what to expect over the week. He warned us that when it all came down to it we were at the whims of the sea and it dictated if we would make it to all the places we were scheduled to be at. Fortunately for us, the sea was kind and we had the most amazing weather I have experienced this entire trip.
Our first stop was Hvar, a place where the rich come to play. The harbor was full of super yachts that made our little boats look like toys. The one that we parked next to was six levels high, had thirteen full time staff including a Micheline 3 star chef. I am not sure that the boat even leaves the docks, it probably doesn't need to. The island itself was stunning with old buildings and a relaxed vibe. We spent the night out on the town with most of the other busabout boats with only one warning given to us, make sure you are back on the boat by 6:30am or you will be trapped on Hvar. Fortunately everyone was on the boat in the morning.
Our mornings were lazy, breakfast was served around 9 while we were traveling between destinations, lounge chairs were spread over the top deck providing ample room for laying in the sun and below on the main deck was a table with a bench that wrapped all the way around where we would play many a card game to pass the time lazily. Usually we would stop sometime in the late morning for a swim break and lunch then the boat would continue on to wherever we were headed next.
Our main stops were Hvar, Mljet, Dubrovnik, Korcula, Makarska, Omis and of course Split. Each place whether on the mainland or on the islands had it's own little story and it's own feel. All of Croatia is a rather laidback place and I think that I could probably spend many months there living in the sun sipping Croatian wine and enjoying the breezing coming off the ocean.
Mljet was our second stop along the way and we spent the afternoon in the stunning national park. In the park you find amazing saltwater lakes and a secluded abbey on the Island of St. Mary in the middle of the biggest lake. It was interesting to walk around St. Mary as it was a very small area and so isolated from everything else. Mljet itself is a small island so for me it is baffling to think that these monks wanted to isolate themselves even further from the world.
Dubrovnik. What a place. It is an UNESCO site because of the walls containing it which are the most fully intact fortress walls in the world. After an orientation walk Troy took whoever wanted to up to walk the 2km of walls. Talk about stunning views. Pictures do not do this place justice. I cannot even begin to describe the awe inspiring beauty that you are surrounded by up there. I wish that there had been more time in this place as I would have loved to have gotten lost in the streets of the old town, wandering among the shops and taking in the sounds. However even with only one afternoon/evening there it has found a special place in my heart. I have nothing but praises to sing for this place and nothing but wonderful memories of our time spent there.
Korcula, the apparent birthplace of Marko Polo, can be likened to a mini Dubrovnik. It also is a city of walls though not as intact as it's larger brother. We spent the afternoon wandering around with promises of a wonderful dinner together in town that night followed by cocktails in a bar situated at the top of one of the turrets left over from the wall. Korcula was an island of temptation with shop after shop filled with artisan jewelery. I am proud to say that I refrained from spending more of my precious Kunas on more jewels than I already have. Sometimes I forget that I am indeed traveling on a budget. It was an easy day and night and although some from the boat went off to do their own dinners most came to enjoy the pizza and pasta offerings at the restaurant of choice. I chatted a bit with the guide Troy and found out a little more of his travel history including a very interesting conversation about the time he had spent in Africa working with children in different social areas such as PE and schooling. For a person of only 30 he has done many things and it was interesting to get a chance to learn a little more about what had brought him to where he was today. I love learning people's stories and have found many time that by just asking the right questions you learn more about a person and who they are than by just observing them from afar.
Makarska nice relaxing stop off with many many many many little street shops lining the promenade areas around the main beach. We spent a few hours wandering through them, looking at the wears and purchasing things for our Pirate party the next night. As the sun started to go down we walked together to the beach to watch a beautiful and vast sunset. The pictures I took are not even close to the sight that was seen. But you will have to only take my word on it.
Omis, a famed pirate town from years past and maintains the nostalgic quality still. We arrived early in the afternoon, had an orientation walk and then a few of us spent an hour hiking up a rather sadistic mountain to the Stari Grad fortress at the top. You might think I am exaggerating but it truly was a miserable hike though completely worth it for the views at the top. After hiking back down to the boat, showers were had and preparation for the pirate party. In Makarska I had purchased some water balloons which I had spent some time filling up during our free time in anticipation of a potential cross boat water fight. After dinner on the top deck in our pirate outfits a plan was hatched by the guide Troy for several of us to ambush our boatmates on the dock when we were going to go out for the night. Little did I know that this would actually lead to my being completely soaked from head to toe after I was double crossed by my partner in crime. Apparently after a few of us left to set up the balloons everyone else was informed that they were to run and grab the balloons and start throwing them at me and the others. I can tell you for sure that I received the most water balloons but I did make contact with a few people in some choice places to pay back for the double cross.
Our last night was in Split once again, we arrived and it was like I had arrived at a place I had known for years. I had already been in and out of Split twice before and knew my way around better than probably any other town I have been too so far. After checking e-mails at the local Aussie run juice bar Tonik, I came back to the boat to commence the sad ritual of packing up my bags to prepare to leave the boat the next morning. The week went by so quickly and I would have gladly stayed on the boat and done it all over again.
That night we all went out to the Red Room, another Aussie run bar that all the Busabout and Eastern Trekker people meet up at when the boats and buses come in. We all st around reminiscing about the week past, laughing over stories and harassing over embarrassments that happened during our time. I had made friends on a few of the boats so for me it was nice to have everyone around one last time. I was also excited to once again see our guide and bus driver from the Eastern Trek I had done 2 weeks previous. They had just made another loop from Split to Prague to Split and had arrived that afternoon. Catching up with them was wonderful as was showing off my newly acquired Croatia tan. I found out that Vlad, the driver, was heading to Ancona the next night on the ferries as well and then would be heading to Rome the same time as me. It is always nice to have friendly faces around especially after spending so much time with a group I knew that to adjust the very next day to solitude was going to be difficult. So to have someone to spend the afternoon killing time with was a great blessing.
Overall I would say that Croatia was the highlight of my trip and again I wish that I could stay there for the rest of my weeks. I have completely fallen in love with the place. I hope that in the next years I will be able to come back again and enjoy the places I have already been as well as new places that I have yet to discover. For now all I can do is look at my picture and remember what was an amazing week and dream of the next time I will be able to be there again.
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