A rather massive post

Days in San Sebastian were sometimes ambitious and other times lazy.  Getting up late, having a cappuccino from the shop a few doors over, wandering around the old district, checking out the beach and being as inefficient as one could possibly be if they were at home.  San Sebastian makes you want to just slow down and enjoy the simple things in life.

After one night of BBQ and one night of Pinxchos  I was about done with eating out, something that happened far too often on this trip, so we decided that another family dinner was in order.  It was Kyra’s last night in with what was now a dwindling group, however we were gaining back Daniel who had finally caught up again from his stay in Madrid, or rather in Colmenar with Carlos.  We started with many in our little group and by the end of the week there would be just two of us left.  The four of us headed down to the beach for an evening by the waves, not really wanting to follow the crowds into the old city to spend our Euros on finger food and over priced Sangria.  

We sat on the docks and reminisced on old times (even though only 2 weeks had passed, which to a traveler is a small lifetime as so much can happen and change in those days).  Goodbyes were said to Kyra as she had an early and long bus to Paris the next day.  The rest of the night was spent with Daniel and Jordan down at the beach until it got too cold to remain.

The next day Daniel and I took the walk up to the top of one of the two closet hills in San Sebastian.  The only thing on top of this hill, other than a beautiful view of the swimmers beach, is the giant Jesus statue.  I will tell you, up close it is equally as confusing as from the beach.  He is huge and wears a bit of a scowl.  However, the views of the San Sebastian harbor are magnificent and many a picture was taken.  I can understand why people come there and never leave.   I was tempted myself.  Seven nights was not enough, though I imagine had the weather not been as amazing as it had been I might feel slightly different about it. 

At the top of the hill we spotted the lanky figure of Jordan who had a new friend in tow, Fu, another traveler that was to join our little group for the day.  Tapas, drinks, sitting at the beach and building some sand sculptures was all that was accomplished that day but  I will tell you, that right there is all you need to do in San Sebastian and it felt fabulous.  The only thing missing was siesta.

The next day plans were made to get up early as there was to be a massive regatta in the harbor at 11.  Now I know what you are thinking, 11 is not exactly an early hour but when most of your nights are spent up until 3 in the morning, 9 and 10 come much earlier than you would hope.  Unfortunately, the regatta was something you had to pay to go see and although I am sure it was fun, I had no intention of paying to watch something I had no vested interest in and probably would not be able to understand.

With our plans dashed we decided to walk around to see where our feet led.  Eventually, we found ourselves heading up the hill on the other side of town off of the surfers beach.  With many different paths all leading eventually to the same places, we let ourselves get lost in the hills for the afternoon, finding the many gorgeous areas and breathtaking views that San Sebastian’s higher points had to offer.  We stumbled upon the HI Hostel hidden up on the hill and I have to say if I were to stay in San Seb again I would spend a night there for sure, it is nestled away from town making it completely impractical if you want to get in and out of old town but the views I can only imagine would be stunning in the evening.   I almost considered renting a room there for that night just for the sake of it, but as I had already paid for my current accommodation it would have been rather impractical.  So we moved on.  

 By the time we returned to the old town, the regatta had finished and the massive party had started, or rather had probably started several hours earlier.  The streets were packed and an absolute mess.  Garbage, bottles and food were scattered everywhere making it impossible to pass through without stepping on something.  I had not seen a mess like this since the Carl Cox concert on the Riva in Split (which was the most disgusting sight the morning after).  

In San Sebastian it was hard to try to organize meets between all of us as the hostel we were staying at had 3 or 4 different properties and no way of really contacting someone outside of facebook which is completely inefficient if you are on your way out and do not check the internet all day.  So when we arrived back to the hostel I found a note from Jordan on my door.  He had been searching us out that morning after we had left already.  It was his last night in town, he was heading back to Barcelona the next morning for another week in his favorite city.  

Unfortunately, we were never able to connect in person again although I have spoken to him several times on facebook and he is still loving his traveling life.  I admire his stamina, at 18 he is more willing to stay up all night, sleep on a park bench, or party the night away than anyone I have ever met.  Nothing slows this guy down.  

Daniel and I headed into the crowds to hop around and enjoy the vibe solo.  Eventually after a couple hours of trying to avoid broken glass and urine we decided to head back down to the beach where we stayed for most of the late hours of the night, listening and enjoying a little peace and quiet away from the insanity that had begun in old town.

My last two days in San Sebastian were spent relaxing at the beach, building epic sandcastles that were admired by young and old alike.  Our first attempts were rather pitiful but on day two of our architectural adventures we invested in a large pail and made a walled fortress city that the Romans would have envied.  Unfortunately, a couple minutes after we started to walk away back to the hostel a group of children that had passed by several times ran up and stomped to death our village.  No respect for art I tell you.

Leaving San Sebastian was a sad day and a miserably long one.  I had decided a few nights earlier that I would not take the train directly to Switzerland but rather would go the longer route on the Busabout buses to save a rather significant amount of money.  13.5 hours to Paris, a slight accommodation error and a horrible nights sleep with another 9 hour bus ride the next day made for a difficult two days.  As well, Paris is where the last of the family divided as I said goodbye to Daniel who was heading to London for the last weeks of his trip.  Melancholic, I spent the day on the bus to Lauterbrunnen listening to music, being anti-social and sleeping.

Switzerland

I would like to say that I saw amazing things while I was in Switzerland but to be honest it was really like driving around BC.  The landscape is similar and the weather about the same as well.  Had the weather been a bit nicer I would have gone up to the highest train station in Europe atop Jungfrau, where they filmed one of the Bond movies, but the clouds made me not want to spend the 130Euro on what was bound to be a miserable view of nothing.

So I spent my days hiking around near the campsite, catch up on laundry and relaxing in solitude.  I finally was able to use my tent and although it was a bit chilly the first night I enjoyed the chance at having some privacy.  It was the first time since Rome that I had a ‘room’ to myself.  I enjoy the community feel of a hostel, you make friends quickly and you get to know people in a way that you would not normally if you were at home.  However, having a shower you don’t have to wait in line for and a bed that doesn’t rock or squeak every time someone rolls over in their sleep is a glorious thing that you do not appreciate until you lack it for 3 months.

Everything in Switzerland is ridiculously over priced and I am glad I did not have much time scheduled there as I would be broke for sure by now.  As well the scenery, as lovely as it is, is not surprising or awe inspiring for me as I have spent my life in similar surroundings.

After Lauterbrunnen I took the train to Luzern, where I stayed for 2 nights waiting for the bus to come to take me to Munich.  Luzern is a small town that has a medieval wall near the old town, a few churches and some lovely scenery as it is located on a rather large lake.  I was staying a 20 min walk from outside of town so I spent as much of the days in town and not at the hostel.  I have come to really dislike using the public transit unless necessary so I tend to spend 95% of my travel time on foot.  My only concession to this rule is when I am carrying around my backpack.  If the walk is more than 10-15 minutes I won’t be doing it with my backpack on because that walk becomes longer when you are walking at a turtles pace with 40lbs of nonsense on you.

I had a brilliant time walking around during the days, I had spent the evening prior downloading what is titled ‘Europlaylist’ on my iPhone.  It consists of many of the songs that became all too familiar on this trip.  In a certain scene there are about 5 songs that get played everywhere you go.  They were all over Croatia and Eastern Europe as well as in Italy and Spain.  You slowly come to love the songs that you once hated because they remind you of the excellent times you have spent in different places with different people.  So I spent the day walking around looking a bit foolish as I bobbed to the beats of my Europlaylist on repeat.

Munchen

The bus to Munich was buzzing, the energy clear as everyone was heading there for the same reason, Oktoberfest.  Another sign of my incredible luck on this trip, this year happens to be the 200^th anniversary of the fest and it had been promised by many to be an amazing sight to be seen.  Our guide on the bus, Cal was dressed up already in her Dirndl, and spent the afternoon telling us different Oktoberfest facts teaching us different songs and dances that were ‘tradition’ in the tents. 

Our first service stop was at a place called Heidiland, the single most random service stop I have encountered on the loops.  You walk up to a building that has a small grocery store, salad bar/restaurant and some souvenir shops and above the entrance is a clock that on the hour sends out what I assume is Heidi, her goat and their friend who all sing to you.  Yes even the goat.  You can also enjoy this show at any other time for the small donation of 5CHF.  Beside the entrance, is a pen that holds 4 or 5 goats.  More of an awww factor than anything else except for the fact that there were Canadian flags everywhere in this pen.  I am not sure if this is what the Swiss think Canada is like, goats and Heidi’s but they had deemed this the little piece of Canada in Switzerland.   The consensus on the bus?  Best rest stop ever.

Our next stop was a photo opportunity not to be missed; Neuschwanstein castle, the original inspiration for the Walt Disney logo.  It was built by an absolutely mad man, Ludwig II of Bavaria, that intended for it to be a refuge away from people where basically no one would ever be allowed.  Being insane he committed suicide before it was finished, or someone killed him.  I don’t think they really know.  Either way him and his psychiatrist were found dead together.  And, to add insult to injury, his precious castle of solitude is now one of the single most visited sight in all of Europe with 1.3 million visitors stomping at the door every year.  Immense.

We arrived that evening in Munich where I was greeted by Isabelle, a guide that I met briefly on the last days of Croatia Sail back in August.  Her and Mandz were going to be with us for the next couple days as we did Oktoberfest.  

Our first night at the fest was tame, checking out the grounds, eating some traditional German fair and tasting the 1L steins of beer.  Beer is a huge part of the German culture and most of the beers hat are served at Oktoberfest are brewed specifically for the event.  There are several main and massive tents and a few smaller ones, each boasting a different brew.  It is estimated that at the fest 6 million liters of beer are consumed as well as 220 000 bratwursts.  In case if ever comes up on Jeopardy.  

 Even in the middle of the week, a time that is supposed to be somewhat slower than the weekends, it is next to impossible to get a table unless you are there for the earliest steins.  With our group it was easier to maintain an area in a tent as there were 20 or so people that could rotate in an out at will.  Why is it so important to have a table you ask?  Because no table equals no food and no beer.  You cannot be standing, save for a few small zones that are marked, and be served.  It’s one of the rules.

It was incredible to watch the serving ladies carry out 6-10 steins of beer at a time.  I cannot imagine how their backs feel by the end of the 17 days.  They are well compensated for their efforts though.   Heard rumors of up to 30 000E between tips and wage for those 3 weeks.  Not bad.

Outside of the tents was a massive landscape filled with food, souvenirs and carnival rides.  It was like being at the PNE but way more entertaining.  The rides were expensive but terrifying enough to make it worth it.  We went on a number of them between the 3 nights that we were all there.  It was a blast.

On day two I went in search of a dirndl all of my own so that I too could fit in with the local scene.  I would say that 2/3 of the people that participate in Oktoberfest dress up in the traditional outfits of lederhosen and dirndls.  It’s all part o the experience and I was not about to miss out on it.  I am now prepared for any German theme party, Oktoberfest party or possibly Christmas party (as mine is very much in Christmas style colours).

The last night I was in Munich I was met once again by my favorite driver Vlad.  I cannot believe how many times I have run into him on the loops these last few weeks, every time we say our final goodbyes for the season and then suddenly, there we are again in the same city.  It is always good to see a friendly face though and fun to catch up and once again say goodbye.  This time it was for sure the final time as I was no longer going to be traveling with Busabout.  The group, including several of the Busabout guides that were in town all hung out that evening at one of the tents, going on rides and enjoying some of last times together.

If there is one thing that surprised me the most in this trip  it was how much I enjoyed my time with Busabout.  I was wary when I first booked the things that I did, not wanting to experience Europe like one would if they traveled with Contiki.  From the first day, when I met Nick from Tsawwassen (it was a sign), it has been a blast.  Everyone I have met and had the best connections with were on Busabout.  All the places that I chose to go to even without having heard of them before were because of recommendations from other Busabout people.  It is a completely different experience because we are all doing Europe in a different way than people on the organized tours.  This mindset, creates a massive group of people that are all in it for the same reason.  To experience what we can, sometimes alone and sometimes surrounded by people who think the same way we do.  Contiki passengers murmer names like ‘Busaboring’ and ‘Boringabout’ because they think that the only way to see Europe is through a haze of alcohol.  However, everyone I met had amazing stories to share of where their trips had taken them and I can say in certainty that we had far more fun than our Contiki counterparts gave us credit for and who never saw Europe except for the inside of the bars (bars that were usually Aussie theme bars at that, way to leave home guys). A bit of a rant sorry.

Only a few more days left to chronicle, Mannheim, Frankfurt, Olso and Bergen.  This trip has gone by so quickly I cannot believe.  I feel like it should still be summer, with heat waves and sunshine surrounding my every movement.  However, I look outside and the leaves are falling from the trees and the rain is coming down in proper Vancouver style.  My last two nights will be spent here in Oslo, chasing the rain in the day and sleeping in a cozy bed dreaming of the days gone by.  

If anything this trip has inspired me to keep on going.  This will not be the last time I set foot in Europe and definitely not the last time I will be picking up my backpack and heading on to a plane with hopes and fears in hand.  I have learned so much these last months about myself and what is truly important to me.  I know now that I will never be rich in possessions or savings accounts but I will continue my journeys and be rich in experience which is far more important than a new car or iPod.

I forgot to mention my friend Duane, a great guy from Edmonton that I met in Munich.  He has a fantastic video blog on youtube that chronicles his trip and what brought him to a point in life where giving up a successful career, taking out a loan and hopping on a plane was the best option.  His videos are brilliant and if you have a chance on a rainy day check them out, they are well worth it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PILFq6NVEK4

Picture links will be posted shortly for those of you that are not on my facebook.  I apologize for the delay, I completely forgot about pictures.  There are probably a several hundred for you look through now though.